BEHIND THE SEAMS

Behind The Seams

NP
January 30, 2018

To elevate the everyday you’ve got to be detail driven. We care about zips and fit and fabrics. A lot. The moment your order arrives, you’ll know how much we loved making your clothes.

To produce our responsibly made collection we put people and planet at the heart of everything we do. We believe fashion can be positive and we want you to know how we do things at NINETY PERCENT.

Because it’s important to us that you’re comfortable with the language we use, here’s a cheat sheet of the materials, processes and practices that make shopping NINETY PERCENT a catalyst for change.

 

Enjoy and #DressBetter

 

PONTE ROMA...

a double knit jersey fabric with four way stretch. Literally translated from Italian as Roman Bridge - when magnified that’s what the arch structure of the fabric replicates. Nothing holds shape like it and that’s why our bodycon pieces fit, flatter and sculpt so well.

 

GOTS… 

the Global Organic Textile Standard certification has been awarded to our organic cotton.

 

GROSGRAIN

this strong close-woven corded fabric is a premium alternative to twill tape for hemming or reinforcements. Hence why we always use it to finish our hoodies.

 

LAMPO ZIPPERS

not only the best zippers in the business, Lampo also share our values in the strive for sustainability. Each zip in our collection was crafted from a bespoke cast bearing the NINETY PERCENT logo.

 

OXI BIODEGRADABLE

in a bid to reduce plastics this type of packaging was invented using natural fibers. Corn starch is our first choice because it breaks down and decomposes easily back to the earth. We love how it looks and feels too.

 

PLAITED VISCOSE

two yarns fused together in our enduring endeavour to seamlessly master comfort and style. Looks like evening wear - feels like loungewear.

 

RUCHING

an ancient and labour intensive sewing technique that gathers a strip of fabric to create volume without bulk. This season volume played a big part in our silhouette. For the collection we favoured the parachute-style ruching (see 1980s Norma Kamali Runway for inspiration) with the inclusion of drawcords to let you play around with proportions.  

 

LOOPBACK...

a literal description of the particular knit that features tiny loops on the underside of the fabric. Originally developed for sports garments, said tiny loops are designed to absorb sweat but also make the fabric super soft and resistant to pilling.

 

EFFLUENT

liquid waste or sewage discharged into a river or the sea. How we deal with water waste is so important in the preservation of our oceans. Our Bangladeshi plant is a step away from achieving a ‘Zero Discharge’ effluent treatment rating.

 

HANDLE

how fabric feels against your skin is what gets us out of bed in the morning and the single most important factor in our design process. We’ve got you covered.

 

TENCEL...

a sustainable viscose, made from renewable wood pulp in a closed loop system and is one of the most heavily featured materials in our collection.

 

LEED RATING...

acronym for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design. It’s one of the most sought after global green building ratings and our Bangladesh plant has been awarded a ‘Platinum’ certification. Bling.

 

MILANO...

the Milano structure combines the 1 by 1 rib with an additional single-bed-only row to control and minimise width stretch. Too technical? It’s the ultimate knit for structure and hold.

 

RAGLAN

named after Lord Raglan, who adapted his coat sleeve following the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo, the Raglan sleeve is one continuous run of fabric from cuff to neck without a shoulder seam. The flexibility of the design saw it take off with the baseball crowd.

 

SUPPLY CHAIN

employing more than 60 million people worldwide, the clothing industry needs to be held accountable for the people and the practices it employs. The term supply chain refers to every single person and practice involved in getting your clothes to you. A transparent supply chain is essential to ensure that nothing and no one is exploited along the way.

 

VISCOSE and RAYON

are plant based man made fibres. Normally derived from wood that’s pulped using chemicals and then shaped into a yarn. Environmental damage from conventional production can be significant and often includes illegal deforestation.

 

POLYESTER

is a plastic derivative. Currently it serves a purpose within our range by giving structure and technical performance for garment longevity that’s not offered by the natural fibre groups. For collection 3, we’re moving towards a circular approach meaning we’re actively sourcing recycled yarns made from old plastic bottles and other waste products.

 

CERTIFICATION...

awarded to manufacturers; they serve as an official thumbs up that they comply with the stated standard.

 

LENZING FIBRE...

is the Austrian company that developed and branded Tencel By collection 3 or 4 we hope to fully transition all viscose to Lenzing Fibre yarns.

 

LOW IMPACT...

Not an official certification or standard, Low Impact is an industry term used in reference to the use of less toxic chemicals during production.

 

OEKO TEX

a certification that uses scientific methods and an extensive testing criteria to measure and assess the environmental and human health impacts of chemicals used in the textile industry. All our Polyester is Oeko Tex standard.

 

CLOSED LOOP FIBRE PRODUCTION...

considered as having close to zero impact on the environment. It’s the future we see for fashion.

 

REACH...

(Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals) is a European Union standard that regulates all industrial handling and use of chemicals, including the textiles industry.

 

TRANSPARENCY & TRACABILITY...

'Transparency is disclosure of information in a standardised manner that enables comparison.

Traceability is the ability to discover information as to when and how a product is made.

If transparency is about trust, then traceability is about accountability'

Leslie Johnson C&A Foundation