BEHIND THE SEAMS

Behind The Seams

NP
January 30, 2018

 

To elevate the everyday you’ve got to be detail driven. We care about zips and fit and fabrics. A lot. The moment your order arrives, you’ll feel how much we loved designing your clothes.

In the meantime while you’re still browsing - here’s a glossary of useful terminology to highlight the finesse applied to the design process and explain the practices behind the collection. 

PONTE ROMA... 
A double knit jersey fabric with four way stretch. Literally translated from Italian as Roman Bridge - when magnified that’s what the arch structure of the fabric replicates. Nothing holds shape like it and that’s why our body-con pieces fit, flatter and sculpt so well. 

GOTS…  
The Global Organic Textile Standard certification has been awarded to all our cotton. 

GROSGRAIN… 
This strong close-woven corded fabric is a premium alternative to twill tape for hemming or reinforcements. Hence why we always use it to finish our hoodies. 

LAMPO ZIPPERS… 
Not only the best zippers in the business, but Lampo also share our values in the strive for sustainability. Each zip in our collection was crafted from a bespoke cast bearing the NINETY PERCENT logo.

PLAITED VISCOSE…
Two yarns fused together in our enduring endeavour to seamlessly master comfort and style. Looks like evening wear - feels like loungewear. 

RUCHING…
An ancient and labour intensive sewing technique that gathers a strip of fabric to create volume without bulk. This season volume played a big part in our silhouette. For the collection we favoured the parachute-style ruching (see 1980s Norma Kamali Runway for inspiration) with the inclusion of drawcords to let you play around with proportions.   

LOOPBACK... 
A literal description of the particular knit that features tiny loops on the underside of the fabric. Originally developed for sports garments, said tiny loops are designed to absorb sweat but also make the fabric super soft and resistant to pilling.

EFFLUENT… 
Liquid waste or sewage discharged into a river or the sea. How we deal with water waste is so important in the preservation of our oceans. Our Bangladeshi plant is a step away from achieving a ‘Zero Discharge’ effluent treatment rating. 

HANDLE…
How fabric feels against your skin is what gets us out of bed in the morning and the single most important factor in our design process. We’ve got you covered.

TENCEL... 
Softer than silk and cooler than linen: Tencel fibre is a sustainable viscose, made from renewable wood pulp in a closed loop system and is one of the most heavily featured materials in our collection. 

LEED RATING... 
Acronym for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design. It’s one of the most sought after global green building ratings and our Bangladesh plant has been awarded a ‘Platinum’ certification. Bling. 

MILANO... 
The Milano structure combines the 1 by 1 rib with an additional single-bed-only row to control and minimise width stretch. Too technical? It’s the ultimate knit for structure and hold. 

RAGLAN… 
Named after Lord Raglan, who adapted his coat sleeve following the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo, the Raglan sleeve is one continuous run of fabric from cuff to neck without a shoulder seam. The flexibility of the design saw it take off with the baseball crowd. 

SUPPLY CHAIN… 
Employing more than 60 million people worldwide, the clothing industry needs to be held accountable for the people and the practices it employs. The term supply chain refers to every single person and practice involved in getting your clothes to you. A transparent supply chain is essential to ensure that nothing and no one is exploited along the way.